Cockatoo Care: Keep a Happy and Healthy Pet Bird

Why Cockatoos Steal Our Hearts

There’s a particular kind of magic in the room when a cockatoo spreads its wings and lets out that first burst of laughter-like chatter. It’s not quite like having a dog wagging its tail at the door or a cat curling up in your lap—it’s something louder, more vibrant, a little chaotic, and yet deeply affectionate. Cockatoos are birds of contradictions: fiercely independent one moment, clinging to your shoulder the next; intelligent enough to undo a cage latch but stubborn enough to refuse stepping off your arm when it’s bedtime. That’s exactly why so many people fall head over heels for them. They’re not just birds—they’re personalities with feathers.

BIRD PROFILE
Bird	Cockatoo
Binomial Name	Cacatua galerita (example: Sulphur-crested Cockatoo; varies by species)
SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom	Animalia
Phylum	Chordata
Class	Aves
Order	Psittaciformes
Family	Cacatuidae
Subfamily	Cacatuinae
Genus	Cacatua
Species	Multiple (e.g., galerita, leadbeateri, goffiniana)
Varieties	Sulphur-crested, Umbrella, Moluccan, Goffin’s, Major Mitchell’s
ENVIRONMENT
Living Environment	Terrestrial; tropical and subtropical forests, woodlands, savannas
Found in	Australia, Indonesia, Papua New Guinea, and nearby islands
Space Requirement	Large aviary; minimum 8×8 ft enclosure with daily out-of-cage time
Average Lifespan	40–60 years (varies by species)
Exceptional Cases	Up to 80 years or more in captivity
Length	12–24 inches (30–60 cm)
Weight	0.7–2.6 pounds (300–1200 g)
Temperature	65–85 °F (18–29 °C)
PERSONALITY
Temperament	Highly social, affectionate, intelligent, loud, can be demanding
Social Behaviour	Flock birds; thrive on interaction with humans or other cockatoos
Diet	Omnivore
Food Type	Seeds, nuts, fruits, vegetables, leafy greens, formulated pellets
KEY FACTORS AFFECTING LIFESPAN
Enclosure / Cage	Large aviary required; small cages lead to stress and destructive behavior
Habitat / Water quality	Requires fresh drinking water and regular bathing opportunities
Diet	Balanced diet essential; seed-only diet can cause obesity and malnutrition
Companions	Best kept with attentive human companions; can live with other cockatoos if compatible
Temperature / Environment stability	Must avoid extreme cold; stable, warm indoor housing preferred
CARE DIFFICULTY
Difficulty Level	Hard
Messiness	High; produces powder down, food debris, and frequent droppings
Additional Requirements	– Large, secure cage or aviary – Constant social interaction and enrichment – Toys for chewing and mental stimulation – UVB or full-spectrum lighting indoors
Special Notes	Extremely intelligent and emotionally complex; can develop behavioral issues if neglected; best for very experienced bird owners

Now, keeping a cockatoo at home isn’t just about admiring its snow-white crest or salmon-pink blush. It’s a commitment to understanding what makes these birds thrive, and I’ll be honest with you—it’s not always easy. Their energy level is like a child on a sugar rush mixed with the curiosity of a cat and the loyalty of a golden retriever. If you’ve ever had one perched on your shoulder while you’re trying to type at your desk, you’ll know what I mean: they insist on being part of your world. And truthfully, you can’t have a happy, healthy cockatoo without letting them in.

Cockatoos are flock creatures at heart. In the wild, they spend their lives surrounded by dozens of other birds, chattering endlessly, preening each other, flying together across open landscapes. When you bring one into your home, you essentially become their flock. That means if you’re not around, or if you’re ignoring them for too long, they notice. And when they notice, they protest. Sometimes that means a loud call that echoes through the walls; sometimes it means plucking at their own feathers out of sheer frustration. The lesson here? Owning a cockatoo isn’t like buying a decorative plant. It’s about building a relationship, one that requires daily attention, patience, and love.

I remember the first time I interacted with a cockatoo up close. It was at a rescue center, a sulfur-crested cockatoo with a mischievous gleam in its eye. Within minutes, it figured out how to unhook my keychain from my belt loop and toss it to the ground. That kind of cleverness is endearing, but it’s also a reminder: these birds aren’t passive pets. They’re active, intelligent beings that need stimulation. Leave them bored, and you’ll find your remote control buttons chewed off or your bookshelf chipped at the corners. But when you lean into their world—teaching them tricks, giving them puzzles, talking with them—you’re rewarded with a companion that can rival even the most loyal dog in devotion.

What makes cockatoos so captivating isn’t just their intelligence, though—it’s their emotional depth. Anyone who says birds don’t feel hasn’t locked eyes with a cockatoo. They gaze at you with something that feels startlingly close to understanding. They tilt their head, they mimic your laugh, they reach out with a claw as if to hold your hand. And they bond hard. A cockatoo can latch onto one person so deeply that separation becomes stressful. That’s both heartwarming and a little heavy—because with great affection comes great responsibility.

So why do cockatoos steal our hearts? Because they remind us of ourselves. They’re playful, moody, affectionate, curious, occasionally destructive, sometimes needy, and always brimming with life. They don’t just sit in a corner and look pretty—they demand you notice them, and in return, they give you a kind of companionship that’s rich, lively, and full of surprises.

If you’ve ever dreamed of a pet that not only greets you when you come home but also talks back, sings with you, or insists on being part of your everyday rituals, then a cockatoo may just be your perfect match. But it’s a two-way street—you’ve got to be ready for the noise, the mess, and the responsibility. Because when you commit, you’re not just buying a bird—you’re inviting a feathered family member into your life, one who will stick with you for decades if you care for them right.

Keep reading as we are going to talk about exactly that: how to keep your cockatoo both happy and healthy in your home. We’ll get into habitats and cages, diet choices, training strategies, and the signs of good (and not-so-good) health. But before all that, remember this: a cockatoo isn’t just a pet—it’s a partnership. If you’re willing to embrace their quirks, give them the stimulation and love they crave, and make space in your daily life for their boisterous spirit, you’ll discover why so many people, myself included, find these birds utterly unforgettable.

Creating the Perfect Cockatoo Habitat

When people first bring a cockatoo home, they often think of the cage as “where the bird lives.” But here’s the thing: the cage is just the starting point, the safe spot, the bedroom. A cockatoo’s real habitat extends to every corner of your home where they’re allowed to explore. These are curious birds that see the world less like a prison of walls and more like a playground to conquer. So, when setting up the right space, it’s not just about measurements and perches—it’s about crafting an environment that balances safety, stimulation, and comfort.

Cage Size and Setup Essentials

First things first: the cage. Cockatoos are big, bold birds, and they need room to move. For a medium-sized cockatoo, the cage should be no smaller than 36 inches wide, 24 inches deep, and 48 inches tall—but honestly, bigger is always better. A cramped cage will make your cockatoo restless, and restless cockatoos get loud, destructive, or depressed. Imagine being asked to live in a closet versus a studio apartment. Both technically fit a bed, but which one lets you stretch?

Inside the cage, you want variety:

Multiple perches of different textures and diameters (natural wood, rope, concrete for nail care).
A swing or two, since many cockatoos love rocking back and forth.
Food and water bowls placed in easy but separate spots to avoid contamination.
Ladders or climbing ropes, because cockatoos don’t just fly—they love to climb like feathered gymnasts.

And don’t forget about security. Cockatoos are notorious escape artists. A simple latch is child’s play for their beak. You’ll want cages with bird-proof locks or even an extra clip to keep them inside when necessary.

Enrichment and Safe Toys

A cockatoo without toys is like a child without crayons or blocks—it’s a recipe for trouble. These birds crave activity. In the wild, they spend hours foraging, flying, and interacting. At home, if they don’t get the same mental stimulation, they’ll make their own fun… which often means shredding your curtains, gnawing on furniture, or dismantling electronics.

The key is rotation. Don’t just dump ten toys into the cage and call it done. Instead, swap toys every week to keep things exciting. Good options include:

Chew toys made of bird-safe wood or untreated rope.
Foraging toys, where treats are hidden inside puzzles.
Noise-makers, like bells or rattles (though, be prepared for extra volume).
DIY toys, such as cardboard rolls, paper cups, or knotted cloth—cheap but endlessly entertaining.

Just be mindful of safety. Avoid anything with small metal parts, toxic paints, or loose threads that could tangle their toes. And remember: a cockatoo can and will destroy a toy in record time. That’s not waste—it’s part of the process. Destruction is enrichment.

Lighting and Temperature Needs

Cockatoos aren’t basement birds. They need light, warmth, and fresh air—all within reason. Natural sunlight is ideal, but since that’s not always practical indoors, consider full-spectrum bird lamps that mimic daylight. This helps regulate their circadian rhythm, which in turn keeps their behavior and feather health in balance.

As for temperature, cockatoos are adaptable but happiest in a steady 65–80°F range. Drafty windows or sudden temperature swings can stress them out. A friend of mine once had her cockatoo start sneezing after she moved the cage near an AC vent—turns out, even a mild draft can throw them off. Always place the cage away from direct vents, heaters, or kitchens (smoke and fumes are dangerous for birds).

And let’s not forget humidity. Many cockatoos hail from environments that are a bit more humid than your average living room. A light misting spray or a small humidifier nearby can do wonders for their skin and feathers, especially during dry winter months.

The cockatoo habitat isn’t just about survival—it’s about creating a space where they can thrive. Think of it like this: if you were designing your dream home, you’d want comfort, variety, and room to breathe. Your cockatoo deserves the same. Set them up with a cage that feels spacious, fill it with toys that challenge their mind, and keep the lighting and climate steady. Do that, and you’ll have a bird that wakes up eager to greet the day instead of sulking in the corner.

Nutrition and Feeding for a Thriving Cockatoo

If there’s one thing that can make or break your cockatoo’s health, it’s diet. Too many new owners assume that a bag of seeds is all a parrot needs. But seeds are basically the potato chips of the bird world—tasty, yes, but nowhere near complete. A cockatoo on a seed-only diet is like a human living on nothing but french fries. Sooner or later, deficiencies creep in, feathers dull, energy drops, and serious health problems appear. Feeding a cockatoo well means thinking in terms of balance, variety, and a bit of creativity.

Balanced Diet Basics

A thriving cockatoo needs food that reflects what they’d forage for in the wild: seeds, nuts, fruits, greens, bark, flowers. In captivity, we do our best to mirror that variety. The foundation should be high-quality formulated pellets, which give them essential vitamins and minerals. Think of pellets as the reliable baseline—the bird equivalent of a multivitamin.

But pellets alone aren’t enough. Supplement with:

Fresh vegetables: leafy greens like kale, spinach, and dandelion; crunchy veggies like carrots, broccoli, or snap peas.
Fruits: apples (seedless), bananas, berries, melons—sweet, but always in moderation.
Nuts: almonds, walnuts, pistachios. Best given as training treats, since they’re calorie-dense.
Whole grains and legumes: cooked quinoa, brown rice, lentils. These add protein and variety.

I once met a cockatoo who turned his beak up at carrots until his owner grated them finely and mixed them with a little warm quinoa. Suddenly, he gobbled them down like it was his favorite dish. Sometimes, it’s about presentation as much as nutrition.

Foods to Avoid at All Costs

Cockatoos are curious eaters, which means they’ll happily nibble on anything you leave lying around. But some foods are absolute no-go zones. Never feed your cockatoo:

Avocado (toxic to birds)
Chocolate and caffeine
Alcohol (obvious, but worth stating)
Salty, sugary, or fried human foods
Fruit seeds and pits (like apple seeds or cherry pits)
Onions and garlic in large amounts

Even small amounts of these can be dangerous, sometimes fatal. The general rule? If you wouldn’t feed it to a baby, don’t feed it to a cockatoo.

Treats and Foraging Fun

Feeding time isn’t just about filling the belly—it’s enrichment. Cockatoos love the act of finding food as much as eating it. In the wild, they spend hours tearing bark, cracking nuts, and digging for roots. You can replicate this with foraging activities:

Hide treats inside paper cups or cardboard boxes.
Stuff veggies into a foraging ball they have to twist open.
Wrap a walnut in a crumpled paper bundle and watch the excitement as they rip it apart.

These little challenges turn mealtime into playtime, and a busy cockatoo is a happy cockatoo. Plus, it keeps their beaks and minds sharp.

Treats should be just that—occasional extras. A chunk of apple here, a pistachio for a well-done trick, or a sliver of banana after a training session. Overdo it, and you’ll end up with an overweight bird. And a heavy cockatoo isn’t just less agile; it’s at higher risk for heart disease, fatty liver, and arthritis.

Feeding a cockatoo well is an art. It’s about more than just calories and nutrients—it’s about variety, creativity, and keeping things engaging. A bowl of pellets may check the boxes, but it doesn’t spark joy. A rainbow of chopped veggies, a few carefully chosen fruits, the crunch of a fresh nut, and the thrill of tearing open a foraging toy—that’s the kind of diet that keeps a cockatoo glowing with health and personality.

Training and Socializing Your Cockatoo

Cockatoos are like feathered toddlers—curious, playful, emotional, and sometimes stubborn. They thrive on interaction, and without proper training and socialization, their intelligence can twist into mischief or, worse, frustration. Think of training not as strict drills but as communication: it’s your way of speaking their language, showing them the ropes of living in a human household, and giving them outlets for their boundless energy. Socialization, meanwhile, is what keeps them well-rounded—teaching them to be comfortable with new people, new places, and changes in routine.

Building Trust and Bonding

Before you can train, you need trust. A cockatoo that doesn’t feel secure with you won’t care about your commands, no matter how many treats you wave around. Building trust is a slow, daily practice:

Sit by the cage and talk in a calm voice.
Offer treats through the bars before ever asking them to step up.
Respect their body language—if the crest goes up and the wings spread in alarm, back off.

One cockatoo I worked with wouldn’t let anyone touch him at first. But his owner sat near him every evening, reading aloud from a book. Weeks later, the bird started inching closer, until one day he climbed onto the arm of the chair. That’s the kind of patience cockatoos demand. Once they bond, though, they bond hard—sometimes too hard, latching onto one person and ignoring others. Which brings us to socialization.

Teaching Tricks and Good Manners

Training a cockatoo isn’t just about fun tricks (though those are a blast). It’s about teaching manners that make life together smoother. The first command most people start with is “step up”—teaching the bird to hop onto your hand or arm. This makes everything easier, from moving them between perches to taking them out of the cage.

Other useful commands:

“Step down” for getting off your arm without a fuss.
“Stay” for those moments when you need them to stay put.
Recall training, teaching them to fly to you on cue (vital if they ever get loose).

Then come the fun ones—waving, spinning in a circle, even dancing to music. Cockatoos pick up on enthusiasm quickly, and their eagerness to mimic can be harnessed for positive behaviors. Use short, consistent sessions, lots of praise, and small treats (a sunflower seed, a sliver of almond).

But here’s the kicker: cockatoos have moods. Some days, they’re eager to learn. Other days, they’d rather shred a toy and ignore you. And that’s okay. Training works best when it’s playful, not forced.

Managing Screaming and Biting

Let’s be honest: cockatoos are loud. It’s in their DNA. In the wild, they scream to keep in touch with their flock across vast distances. At home, that flock is you—and they’ll scream if they feel ignored. The goal isn’t to eliminate screaming (impossible), but to shape it. Encourage “contact calls” (a whistle, a phrase) instead of letting ear-splitting shrieks get reinforced. If they scream and you run over in a panic, you’ve just taught them screaming works.

Biting is another hurdle. Most cockatoos don’t bite out of malice—they bite when they’re scared, overstimulated, or testing boundaries. The best approach is prevention:

Learn their warning signs (flared crest, dilated pupils, lunging posture).
Avoid forcing interaction when they’re clearly saying “no.”
Redirect their energy with toys, chewing blocks, or training games.

If a bite happens, don’t yell or punish. Just set the bird down calmly. They’ll quickly realize biting ends the fun.

Training and socializing a cockatoo is less about dominance and more about partnership. These birds aren’t meant to be controlled—they’re meant to be guided, engaged, and respected. When you build trust, teach with patience, and understand their natural tendencies, you end up with not just a trained bird but a true companion. And when your cockatoo waves at you for the first time, or dances along to your favorite song, you’ll realize something: the training was never just for them—it was for you, too.

Health and Wellness for a Long Life

One of the most striking things about cockatoos is their lifespan. With proper care, many can live 40, 50, even 70 years. That means bringing one home isn’t just a pet decision—it’s a decades-long commitment. And the difference between a bird that thrives into its golden years and one that struggles often comes down to health and wellness practices. Food and love are part of it, of course, but so are the little daily habits—watching for signs of illness, grooming, and creating a stress-free environment.

Common Health Issues in Cockatoos

Cockatoos are hardy, but they’re not invincible. A few health issues crop up more often than others:

Feather plucking – Often a sign of stress, boredom, or nutritional imbalance. Imagine being so restless that the only outlet is pulling your own hair—that’s what it’s like for a cockatoo with unmet needs.
Respiratory problems – Dusty environments, smoke, or poor ventilation can cause wheezing, sneezing, or tail-bobbing breaths. Their lungs are delicate, far more sensitive than ours.
Psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD) – A viral condition that weakens feathers and beaks, requiring vet diagnosis and careful management.
Obesity and fatty liver disease – Caused by high-fat diets (especially seed-heavy ones) and lack of exercise.

The tricky part is that birds are masters at hiding illness. In the wild, a sick bird is vulnerable, so they mask symptoms until things are serious. That means it’s on you, the owner, to notice subtle changes—droopy posture, loss of appetite, unusual droppings, or a bird that suddenly becomes quiet when they’re usually chatty.

Grooming and Feather Care

Cockatoos are self-preening machines, but that doesn’t mean you’re off the hook. They need regular baths or misting to keep their feathers clean and reduce dander. A simple spray bottle with lukewarm water works wonders. Some cockatoos even love hopping into the shower with you (just keep water pressure gentle and avoid soaps).

Wing trimming is debated among bird lovers. Some argue for safety indoors; others believe birds deserve full flight. My take? It depends on your household. If you have open doors and ceiling fans whirring, a partial trim might prevent accidents. But in a bird-proofed environment, flight gives them exercise and confidence. Either way, wing care should only be done by someone experienced—an improper cut can cause bleeding or pain.

Nail trimming is another must. Perches made of rough concrete can help keep nails in check, but eventually, they’ll need a proper trim. Some owners learn to do it at home; others prefer a vet visit. Beak trimming, on the other hand, should rarely be necessary if the bird has enough wood and chew toys—healthy chewing keeps the beak naturally filed.

Signs It’s Time to Visit the Vet

You don’t need to be paranoid, but regular vet visits (once or twice a year) are non-negotiable. And if any of the following crop up, don’t wait:

Labored breathing or open-mouth panting
Sudden loss of appetite
Feather loss not linked to molting
Lethargy or unusual quietness
Swollen eyes or nasal discharge

Finding an avian vet (not just a general pet vet) is critical. Birds have unique physiology—what works for a dog or cat might be useless, or even harmful, for a cockatoo.

Health and wellness for a cockatoo is about being proactive rather than reactive. Don’t wait for a crisis. Provide good food, a clean and stimulating environment, grooming support, and yearly checkups. Think of it like maintaining a classic car: constant little adjustments, careful monitoring, and respect for the machine’s limits. Do that, and your cockatoo can reward you with decades of companionship, laughter, and those wild, glorious calls that fill the whole house.

Living in Harmony with Your Cockatoo

At the end of the day, keeping a cockatoo isn’t about the cage, the diet, or even the training—it’s about building a life together. These birds don’t just sit in a corner and look pretty; they insist on being woven into the fabric of your daily rhythm. They’re loud, sometimes messy, occasionally demanding—and yet, they’re also some of the most affectionate, expressive, and downright hilarious companions you’ll ever meet.

Living in harmony with a cockatoo means leaning into the partnership. You don’t “own” a cockatoo so much as you share your world with one. It’s the small things that make the bond rich: the morning chatter when you uncover the cage, the way they bob their head to your music, or the quiet moments when they nestle against your cheek. Those moments are the payoff for the patience, the noise tolerance, and the endless supply of chew toys you’ll go through.

It’s worth remembering that a cockatoo isn’t a short-term fling. With lifespans stretching into decades, this is a relationship that will outlast many jobs, apartments, and even friendships. Some cockatoos outlive their owners, which is both awe-inspiring and sobering. When you bring one home, you’re not just getting a pet—you’re making a promise, a kind of lifelong contract of care.

And yes, there will be hard days. Days when the screaming tests your patience, or when a bite catches you off guard, or when you’re sweeping up shredded paper for the third time in an afternoon. But then there are the days when they learn a new trick, or when they call your name in that uncanny little voice, or when they spread their crest and wings in a full display that feels like a celebration of life itself.

I often think of cockatoos as mirrors. They reflect back the energy you give them. Show them frustration, and they’ll act out. Show them patience, joy, and attention, and they’ll shine. They’re not background pets—they’re front and center, demanding presence. But in that demand lies the gift: they keep you present, keep you laughing, keep you aware of the simple pleasures of companionship.

So if you’re considering a cockatoo, or if you’re already living with one, take heart. The effort you pour into their care—setting up the right habitat, feeding them well, training with patience, watching over their health—pays back a hundredfold in love and personality. Cockatoos are not for everyone, but for those willing to embrace the challenge, they are unforgettable.

Because at the end of the day, what could be more rewarding than sharing your home—and your heart—with a creature that looks at you not as an owner, but as part of their flock?

How to Keep a Happy and Healthy Cockatoo at Home